Thursday morning we find ourselves back in the old part of town, without guide, and feeling more relaxed, and happier to take things at our own pace. As we walk we are aware that we are objects of cuorisity to many; but within a short time we are approached by friendly Kashmires, who just wants to say' hello'. This is what we wanted!, and soon we are in the maze of back streets. Bearded muslim fanatics turn their heads as we approach, which we expected. In one of the side streets a man in his forties smiles at us and we strike up a conversation; all the time very aware that we have to keep moving. I make an excuse that we are going to buy some Chai, and straight away he invites us to visit his family nearby. Invitation kindly accepted, we follow him through narrow streets to his house.
As we approach you are aware that a few sheep are close by..... scarafice imminent. We climb up to the first floor, and he shortly returns from the kitchen with salted chai tea, and a plate of pancakes. Crossed legged we chat to him in broken English, play with his children, and meet his elderly mother. So very kind, and such a touching gesture. He informed me that we were the first Westerners he had seen in these back streets, and that our presence was appreciated. He told us that we were brave, but really wanted Westerners to come to Kashmir.
We continued our walking tour; took photos, climbed the large hill that overlooks the town to see a muslim shrine Hazrat Sultan Fort, escorted by a very friendly Kashmire woman who didn't speak a word of English.
After four hours we hailed a rickshaw. As he pulled over, an Indian soldier came over to his side shouting violently because he was parked badly. As the driver got back into his driving seat the soldier started for no reason kicking his thigh, and yelling abuse. This is how it is in Kashmir ! Beautiful scenery, friendly and open people living in a historically volatile region.
Video clip will be added when I have faster internet connection.
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