Tuesday 29 June 2010

World Heritage Site - The Ajanta Caves


Now relaxed, drinking a coffee, and will shortly take the bus the 4 Km down to the caves. Best to have your own torch. It's a sunny day, the birds are singing, and I'm away from pack dogs, and 20 plus street pigs......life is good.......for the moment.

The Ajanta Caves are carved in a horse-shaped escarpment overlooking the narrow Waghora river gorge, and number around 27. They were rediscovered by a Brit soldier out on a tiger shoot back in 181รง. He even left his name scratched in a pillar in Cave 10. To reach the caves you have to pass through a small complex of shops, where you have to fight off the shopkeepers. Then , believe it or not you have to pay 7 rupees to cross a small bridge (Ameinity tax) where a government bus takes you for 7 rupees the 4 Km to the caves. Entrance to the cave complex costs Indians 10 rupees, but for all foreigners (walking ATM machines) then 250 rupees. The caves are all extremely interesting to visit, and at this time of the year there are only a handful of tourists, 99.9% being indian. A number of the caves have wonderful wall paintings, but unfortunately very few are in good condition. I took around 250 photos, but due to limited light hardly any were in focus. One can imagine how the caves must have looked when they were occupied by Buddhist monks.
We spent around three hours in the cave complex, and it was well worth the visit.

On leaving tried to buy a cold drink from the government restaurant fridge, but the fridge only supplied warm drinks......;you can hopefully see why I am confused. Then it was back onto the bus where you had to pay another 7 rupees, return tickets are not available. Then it was another running of the gauntlet through the small shopping complex, and finally back to the peace and quiet of the chalet.

But Ajanta was well worth the visit, and so similar to the Dordogne.

An Indian returns rupees....must be a first!!!

Tuesday 29th June booked into hotel. After checking the room, negotiating the price was in need of a good recovery sleep so as to enjoy the Ajanta caves this morning.
Dream on!!!!!! I specifically asked for a quiet room, and was assured that the room was very quiet.

We ate supper in a shack next to the hotel, and retired to our room. At about 10.30 p.m I could hear through the paper thin walls a number of roudy indians had moved in for the night. At 12.30 in the morning I knocked on their door and politely asked them to lower the volumne, but to little effect.

At 5 o'clock in the morning the noise of laughing, clearing their throats at full volumne started again. I went on the balcony, and saw one indian asleep, and others half dressed. I was not happy!!! after no more than a few hours sleep. When I explained how I felt about their total inconsideration one of them just smiled. Well briefly.....packed up our items, went downstairs and complained in no uncertain terms to the manager??????, and demanded my money back. Result being that he wasn't too enthusiastic about returning 500 rupee.

What do you do in this situation when you are tired? Answer, grab his official hotel registration book; lock it in your bag,and walk. That's what I did, and within seconds he was on the phone to his boss as I was heading for a rickshaw before 7 in the morning. Result being, two minutes later he is running behind me waving 500 rupees begging me to return his book. Problem resolved!!!!!
If you hard with indians they back down everytime, and one of the best pieces of advice I can give someone coming to India for the first time is simple. Whether you are asked or not, then tell everyone that you have been to India 5 times before. Their response is the same 'you have a lot of experience', and hence you immediately increase your negotiating power, and their respect.

So now in a nice hotel (government run) near the little shopping complex where you can hear the birds, and incredibly the view looks just the same as the hills around Saint Sozy.......Oh, I feel a little home sick.

Khandwa to Bhusawal and on to Ajanta


The train journey from Khandwa to Bhusawal took about an hour and a half, and passed kilometre after kilometre through banana plantations. The sleeper class was packed full, and we only managed to sit on our bags outside the lavatory doors (the train was heading to Bangalore in the south; a 24 hour journey). The people you meet, and see on the train, especially in this type of 'budget' fare are unforgettable. The ticket controller doesn't even enter these wagons. There are peanut sellers, banana sellers, one legged woman begging for money, sweet sellers, ice cream sellers, collections for relgious fanatics, blind sellers of baby toys. You name it, and they'll be on the train. I guess the only thing not for sale is a fridge, but a 5 rupee packet of peanuts, and 3 bananas was purchased.

On arrival at Bhuswal decided to treat ourselves to a 60 kilometre rickshaw ride to Ajanta

Direction Maheshwar, but not easy...buses at their best.


Getting out of Mandu was a real experience, and it wasn't going to be easy. Maheshwar also seemed possibly an interesting small town to visit on the banks of the Narmada river. The only way out of Mandu was by taxi (stupid prices, or by bus). We took the bus (crammed full as usual) 14 km to a junction and then waited 30 minutes for the local bus to Damnude, which was an hours journey away. At Damnuude changed bus again for Maheshwar and finally arrived about an hour later. Maheshwar had little to offer; a smallish old fort, and a dry river. So after walking a kilometre to find accommodation decided a night's stay wasn't worth the effort, and decided to move on. Most buses ran back to Indore, but we had no real intention on returning to Indore, but Balwada was a train junction, and therefore a good place to head to.
After about an hour I sensed that we might just be on the wrong bus, although I showed the map to the driver before we boarded. I later found out he couldn't read... very helpful.

Well, it was the wrong bus, but it was heading in the semi- right direction. So we changed at a place called Bushwar (not on our map, but near Sanawad), and after a break of 15 minutes decided to take our 5th bus of the day to Khandwa (also a train junction). Three hours later finally arrived in Khandwa in the pouring rain as the sun set. The bus had no windscreen wipers, and I doubt any lights. The entrance to the town was along a 3 kilometre bumpy un-tarmacd road; through the back streets to the bus station. Instantly not a good feeling, and I doubt if many tourists come this way. Quite understandable.

I went off on foot, and shortly found a pretty rough guest house for the night, dirty but bearable for one night's stay. Was advised by a local that it was a bad area,(no real surprise as we were close to the bus and train station) and it was best not to go down the side streets (I had no intention) hence we just wanted to get out of the place as early as possible the next morning.

So a very long and tiring day spent travelling on cramped, hot and sweaty buses...too much in one day! In the morning (29th June) managed to get a place on the 11.30a.m train to Bhusawal (near Jalgaon). Sleeper class, which basically means the worst seats available.
The monsoon storms have arrived late this year, and with the high humidity levels ; a new challenge or better to describe a new annoyance............flys in their thousands.........everywhere!

Mandu....Calm,and beautiful monuments and scenery.



Mandu....48 sq kilometres of historical monuments set in rolling hills; a little peace and calm at last. After finding accommodation we rented 2 bikes for an hour (10 rupees each), mine being at least 50 years old, rod breaks, and weighed a tonne for a little tour of the village. Village children everywhere; smiling faces, and the usual request for school pens, and of course '10 rupees'. They learn very young here!, but I guess that's survival mentality.


Back to Mandu which is set in the Vindhaye mountains. There are at least 13 major sites to visit in the area, and at one time a long way back apparently over a million people lived here, but was deserted after an earthquake. We took a local taxi to visit Rumpati's Pavilion (5km from the village), which from it's location gave spectacular views of the surrounding countryside. You could spend at least a week in Mandu just checking out all the ruins, and palaces, but as it was hot and humid we decided to move on.

Mandu....Madhya Pradesh


Arrived early Sunday morning in Indore, and immediately took a rickshaw to a bus station. The early morning street scenes didn't really give you the wish to stay very long. The same scenes, dirt, and misery that we have seen in every small town and city so far in India. To be poor is one thing, but to be poor, homeless in a city must be a living hell. The number of physcially handicapped you see is staggering; from the limbless on crutches, to those propelling themselves on 50cm square boards with 4 tiny wheels with there hands.....populated areas just don't change. Well.....that's a long subject to talk about for another day.

The bus journey to Mandu took just over 3 hours; cramped, hot, and noisy, very noisy. Indians use their car horns continually, and I mean continually. Not just a single 'bleep', but a continuous syphony often lasting 5 seconds or more. The horn for all is a reflex action, and maybe that's reason they speak so loudly as they are half deaf.

On arriving in Mandu partially deaf in my right ear (seriously); found accommodation in a 'Rest House' in the centre of the village. Basic, basic, but cheap......150 rupees.

Udaipur direction Indore to Mandu





Udaipur missed water, and if the lakes had been full then the Jag Niwas (Lake Palace) would have looked magnificent. Apparently the monsoon rains are late this year to water Rajasthan.
Wherever you walk in Udaipur there are a thousand signs 'Showing Octopussy this evening'. The town seems to live of the fact that James Bond 'Roger Moore' was fimed there back in 1989?

Down by Lake Pichola I met a muscian who was proud to show me his picture in a French magazine, and managed to sell me his CD (to play as background music for the photo exhibition......; a friendly character). As luck would have it, ten minutes later a shopkeeper kindly gave me another CD (free of charge) from a professional local muscian. Could have saved a few rupees, but too late.

Also met a 'brocanteur' who was friendly with the French portrait photographer Roland Michaud, and offered to pass on our exhibition details to him.

In the evening booked the night train from Udapiur to Indore, and whilst waiting for the train saw a flock of some hundred flying bats the size of crows pass overhead in the evening sky.

So Udaipur was very touristique, and was happy to move on as foreign tourists were begining to arrive. Would Mandu be the same?

Thursday 24 June 2010

Jaisalmer to Udaipur the hard way.



As expected the coach journey from Jaisalmer to Udaipur was long, very long. The coach had no air conditioning; full of dust and sand, and was so full even the aisle had 20 or so crossed legged passengers crammed like sardines. The 12 hour journey seemed never ending, and was impossible to find more than 10 minutes sleep. Spent the night completly soaked in sweat, and dust.

The coach stopped firstly at Barmer for 15 minutes, and then headesd across the desert villages and towns before arriving at Udaipur at 6 a.m this morning. An experience, not to be repeated in temperatures touching 40 degrees centigrade. Not a great deal of things to see in the daylight hours, camels, peacocks, sand and more sand.

Instant early morning impression of Udaipur; cleaner than other towns in Rajasthan. Hotel near the Old City Palace, clean, and within 2 minutes walk from a beautiful Jain Temple. Spent most of the day recovering, and organising laundry.

A small world if ever; bumped into a French couple (in their early 60's), the husband knows St Sozy, as he was born in Martel. They plan coming to the photo exhibition next summer.

Tuesday 22 June 2010

Sand storm in Jaisalmer...moving on.



Have spent 3 nights in Jaisalmer, and time to move on tomorrow (23rd June) to Udaipur; will miss Pushkar as apparently their is little water in the city to view the ghats. So tomorrow will be 12 hours in a bus, and hopefully will arrive at 5a.m the 24th.
Spent today walking in the old town; cooler due to a sand storm; dust everywhere, and stinging eyes. The sandstone carved architecture is magnificent especially Paton ki Haveli (Haveli being the name given to a wealthy merchant/political leaders house.) Also interesting to see Salim Singh's Haveli down from the fort's entrance.

Two weeks ago here in Jaisalmer they had 5 inches of rain in a day (that's the normal yearly rainfall in 24 hours), and down from the fort the small desert lake is full, so early tomorrow morning I shall head down that way to try and capture the sunrise.

So Jaisalmer has been nice to see, hardly any tourists, but I can imagine in the coming weeks it will be 'hell', a good break before moving on, and a recommended place to visit.

Monday 21 June 2010

Jaisalmer - Thar desert - Some like it hot!!!!!


As expected, the easiest part of the journey was taking a rickshaw to the bus station. On showing the already paid ticket (on the reverse printed - we accept no responsibility for lost luggage) the driver demanded 20 rupee for the safety of our luggage. I might be stupied, but did I believe that my luggage would obtain preferential treatment for 20 rupees.....I just don't think so.

The bus was packed, but luckily we had 2 seats. No fans, no AC, and really little space to move. With the bus full, passengers crammed in the passage way; the driver continued to stop to collect even more passengers. Hot.....sweltering hot!

After an hour the bus stopped for five minutes, and the sellers of bottled water, mango juice and snacks fight their way to the open windows to make a sale. Water is a winner, but again if you haven't the 15 rupees and you pass out of the window a 100 rupee note, then you will lose it in a cloud of dust. Always take the the goods you buy, show the banknote, and only hand over the money when the seller has given you the change. You always have to think one step ahead....always. The Indians pay in the same manner.

Well after 2 hours the coach stopped in the desert, the driver alighted with a spanner for 5 minutes (not a good sign), and then drove off. The chances of getting to out destination on time wasn't looking promising. AND, as expected 10 minutes later the coach broke down. Everyone alighted into the plus 50 degrees. However, Indians take things in their stride, and 10 minutes later the driver waved down another coach, and after awhile everyone piled onto the second coach. How everbody squeezed in, I just don't know.

Later arrived in Jaisalmer, having passed even the odd dead camel in the sand; found accommodation, and although super hot ventured out for a quick look at the town. First impression................beautiful hand sculptured buildings; less noise, hardly any tourists..... a quiet, but extremely hot place to relax in.

Jodhpur - Blue City - Sun City - Rajasthan


The 5 and a half hour train journey from Jaipur to Jodhpur passed without incident. Spent some of the time sitting in the open train doorway, as the half a kilometre long train passed at speed through the semi-desert landscape; past the salt lakes of Sambhar (Phulera), on to Makrana, and finally into Jodhpur.

Arrived late in the evening and found accommodation not far from the station. First impression of hotel were some thirty people asleep along the broken up pavement; sharing their sleeping quatres within inches of resting cows and dogs. Usual dust, and noise, and the odd horse galloping up the middle of the street. Thankfully the room was at the back of the hotel, and hence relatively quiet.

In the morning went for my usual early morning walk in the backstreets around the clock tower (a local landmark) in the bazaar area, and up the narrow streets to the painted blue houses under the shadow of the Fort.

Jodhpur was nicer than Jaipur; of course the continual never ceasing 'touts' and commission seekers, but the over-crowded bazaars selling mainly spices and tissue were colourful and un-threatening.

The 2 days spent in Jodhpur were mainly spent in the blue part of the city; too hot to venture out in the afternoon (48 plus degrees centigrade). Booked bus ticket from hotel for 8.30 a.m for Monday 20th June. A five hour plus journey, no air conditioning............this was going to be interesting, and it proved so.

Saturday 19 June 2010

The value of life in a religious country.


Thursday the 17th was a memorable day for all the wrong reasons. Had planned to leave Jaipur for Jodhpur (of riding trouser fame) at 11.50a.m, but after delay, and further delay finally left at 5.15 p.m.
Hence spent most of the day watching the timetable; wondering if we would ever get out of Jaipur.

The platforms were full all day; thousands of people both Hindus and Muslims alighting, and boarding trains to unknown destinations, AND amongst the masses lay a woman (possibly in her 40's) half naked on platform 2. I have never witnessed, and never wish to see again at close quatre the fly invested, skelatal lifeless body of a human being in the last stages of life being surrounded by so many people, but being so alone as her life ebbed away in 45 degrees centigrade.

Briefly, I went to a train managers office (no more than 10 metres away from the semi-corpse), and explained in no uncertain terms how I felt about the scene outside his door. Only when I explained that the lifeless woman could easily be his wife, or daughter did he finally manage to lift his 'butt' out of his chair for a quick glance on his platform. He then begrudgingly told me that he would telephone a colleague. Infact his exact words were ' It's not my duty', you can imagine what my response was!!!!!

Whether Hindu, Muslim, Christen or a complete non-believer; it is extremely hard to understand how so many people can witness such a horrific scene, and pass bye. In such a religious country I am truly shocked at our fellow man's behaviour. It makes you think very hard indeed!

Barala village - mongoose - camels


Wednesday 16th spent most of the day in the home village of our rickshaw driver from Jaipur. Barala being situated some 30 Km from Jaipur, and only reached from passing through a large industrial zone on the outskirts along potted sandy tracks. Saw my first mongoose (a welcome friend to the villagers to keep down the snake population).
The family lived a very self-sufficent life, growing corn and barley in the semi desert soil which they sold at the local market. Totally self sufficent, with vegetables, and milk products etc..., but what a welcome relief from the noise, and pollution of Jaipur. Again, a walk around the neighbouring farms created great interest as we were the first white people to have visited them, hence we were soon followed by 20 or so curious villages; memories of Kashmir.

A good souvenir, and then back past the smoking chiminies of the brick factories to Jaipur

Tuesday 15 June 2010

Rickshaw hijacked by............................


It's one thing being hasseled continually by bicycle and auto rickshaw driver's, but the final straw has to be when you leave your rickshaw for a short period, and return to find a monkey comfortably installed for it's breakfast. This is Jaipur.

Today visited the Monkey Temple for the sole purpose of finding a view point that overlooks Jaipur. Then headed out to the Amber Fort some 10 kilometres away. Worth visiting if only to see the surrounding hill top forts and the Jaipur Wall of China. Agra fort was much more interesting!

Tomorrow off to the surrounding countryside to try and find real Rajasthan living, and cusine. Jaipur is very noisy, sandy, and at present toooooooo hot. The early monsoon storms have started to arrive, and the skies above are begining to look rather menacing.

Sunday 13 June 2010

The beauty and tranquilty of the Baby Taj - Itimad-ud-Daulah's tomb.


Four kilometres upstream on the East side of the Yamuna river lies the magnificent 'Baby Taj'. Made completely from marble, and inlaid stonework. A must to visit if in Agra, and a place to escape from the noise of the the city, and the crowds at the Taj Mahl.
Truly beautiful!

Also for those who do not wish to pay the exhorbient entry fee to visit the Taj Mahl; the East side of the Yamuna river provides a wonderful view of the Taj across the river. It is here that visitors come to in the evening to take photos of the sunset.

Our biycle rickshaw driver, who had seen better days allowed me to ride his rickshaw, much to the amusement of the viwing public. Though I guess a little embarrasing for him.
So the day started, let's say not too well, and the afternoon made up for it.

Saturday 12 June 2010

Johri bazaar - Agra


This morning left early to hunt out the back streets of Johri bazaar in the old part of Agra. Aways in search for an unusual photo where tourists do not venture.

I took a rickshaw to Agra Fort, and then walked on down into the bazaar area near Jammi Majid. You cannot avoid the pungent stink of stagnent waterlogged rubbish piled 1 and a half metres high. At times you are almost sick with the odour; as the morning temperature rises rapidly. The streets of the bizaar area are equally filthy, as the packs of dogs, monkies, and cows search for their breakfast.

After 30 minutes decided to head into the maze of side streets, seemed a good idea at the time, as that is where the unusual scene awaits to be photographed. All was well for a while, and then within a short period of time 5 youngsters continually tried to snatch my bag. After threatening them with a hard clip round the head continued in the narrow disgusting streets only to have stones hailed at me... great!

So when that happens that is a clear warning........ So as I continued my morning excursion (in the Muslim quatre) I soon came across water buffalo being slaughted with hammers, and the gutters flowing with blood. As I have mentioned before, hygiene, health regulations do not exist here. In one such side street I was waved to, and read the gesture clearly.....You are not welcome here, move on.

So that was my last exciting morning in Agra. Now looking forward to Rajasthan, and hopefully will find a cleaner, and less hassle free part of India than the rest of the places already visited.......One rests in hope, but not confident. Nothing really changes here from town to town, city to city. It's a fight everyday, and truly you just cannot relax................shame, but that's the adventure.

A year of this seems almost impossible to stomach, but it's early days.

An emotional day - Agra Fort - Jammi Majid - Agra


At 10a.m headed off back down to the Taj to the dusty track. This time I was stopped by three police officers, and was ordered to turn back. After explaining that I had already passed the same way earlier, and I wanted to visit the temple one police officer reluctantly waved me on. When I reached the 'grey area' the dogs had parted, and a few elderly men were chatting on a raised platform. I was informed that the area was indeed a Hindu cremation area, and the cremations took place in the evening. Relatives of the dead came in the morning to gather their beloved one's ashes (to scatter at Varanassi, or put somewhere in the Ganges river at a later date).
Just as I was about to leave I turned my head and a group of men were entering the area carrying a corpse on a bamboo stretcher, then followed by others carrying bundles of thin sticks, and others with heavy fire logs. This is NOT the time to take photos. I wasn't even sure for awhile if my presence as a Westerner was welcomed; so kept in the shadows to see if I was intruding. Then another female body was sretchered into the area, and placed next to a brushed cleaned fire area.

My presence as a viewer to the events wasn't welcomed, and wasn't challenged, so I descended from my semi-hiding area, and stood amongst 20 people some 5 metres from the first body. As the funeral pyre was constructed in a methodical, and time proven manner I watched the events in amazement, and found the whole event extremely moving.

Once the main base of the pyre was constructed, the body of the man (aged around 50) was lifted onto the half constructed pyre. Then the thin cotton sheet was removed from his head, and lumps of ghee fat (like tea light candles) were place on his eyes and chin. The face having already been covered in an oil. Brush wood was placed on top of the body followed by more heavy logs. Then wood was place vertically all around the body, and what seemed to be dried animal manure was pushed between the gaps of the logs. Before the pyre was lit, a powdered substance was scattered all over the pyre. This I believe was a scented substance.

So after about 40 minutes the pyre was lit and the crowd of some 25 people beat a hasty retreat as the flames jumped seveal metres into the air like a fireball. Apparently it takes approximately 3 hours to cremate the body. I had seen enough, and didn't wish to see anymore.

How did I feel? A little shocked, priveliged to have witnessed such an event, and very reflective on how short our lives are, and what a brutal end. It makes you think......................A lot!!!!!!!

At this place some 40 bodies are cremated everyday..............within spitting distance of the Taj Mahl where tourists have no idea what is unfolding a few hundred metres away on the banks of the Yamuna.(Top photo shows plumes of smoke from the funeral pyres - photo taken at distance from Agra fort). Maybe that is just as well.

Early morning pickings - Bank of River Yamuna - Agra

This morning (12th June) got up early for my usual photo promenade. Went through the park that's infront of the Taj through the West gate, and shortly came across in excess of 1OO children playing games of cricket in the sandy breaks in the trees. God knows what time they strarted, maybe around 5 a.m.

Then proceeded down to the West entrance of the Taj, and already the doors were open for visitors. The Taj itself being open 7 days a week, but only for 2 hours on Friday for muslims to visit.
Then headed down one side of the Taj along a dusty track to the Yamuna river, passed a small temple where 2 burly looking Hindu's offered me a massage (they would have broken every bone in my body). Continued upstream sometimes on the littered banks and sometimes amongst the grazing water buffalo. At one point I had to climb up the bank where I found myself in a quiet grey area only occupied by a pack of dogs, and scavaging amongst fire remains. It then dawned on me from what the dogs were eating that this was a place where the dead were cremated. A poignant area if ever there was one; especially as there were the remains of some 40 fires, some still smouldering.
Feeling, slightly disturbed but also curious, continued my walk and returned through the park back to my accommodation. Would return later.

Friday 11 June 2010

Lord Krishna.......Mathura


Took the train from New Delhi train station (5.25 p.m), having arrived from Amritsar at Old Delhi. Bought tickets from the over crowded first floor; for Agra, and could only get a 3rd class, non- air conditioned seat......quite an experience. As usual the train stopped at every station en-route, and progressed at snail speed for the first half of the supposedly 3 hour journey. What with being tired, hot, and surrounded by sweaty, dirty companions decided to alight a Mathura (45 mins from Agra).

On arrival at Mathura was welcomed by the usual 5 to 6 rickshaw drivers. All you want when you arrive in a new destination is a little peace and quiet, to get your bearing before heading out into the night to find somewhere to sleep; but it's never like that.....unfortunately.

Well, found a Guest House.......cheap. It can only just be called a house, and you certainly don't feel like a guest. Guest houses here take on a different meaning. First night slept reasonably well, apart from a few ants, and fleas. Second night, left my room twice between 1 a.m and 2 a.m because of the noise, and had to literally threaten the night watchman and his group of friends before they would oblige to reduce the volume. Being extra polite the first time, was a waste of time!

As for Mathura, the old part of town, and bizaar area are much the same as anywhere else. The Krishna Temple by the Vishram Ghat (steps going down to the water's edge) is interesting to see. Only spoilt by the usual litter, stench of urine (made worse in 45 degrees temperature, open drains, and so called Krishna follows approaching you, and saying 'Hari Krishna ten rupees'. The next day visted a few other interesting sites in the area, but glad to move on to Agra.

Tomorrow is another day. Really need a quiet, clean room!!!

Tuesday 8 June 2010

District Bandipora - Keh Noosa Ghat - Kashmir


After spending a number of days on Lake Nigeen, (Sunday 23rd May) then headed off into the real village life of Kahsmir. The family of Waseem: the boathand on Lake Nigeen lived in a small village almost in the middle of nowhere. After several hours driving through torrential rain we found ourselves in Keh Noosa Ghat. A community of no mre than 350 inhabitants.

As we got out of the vehicle we were instantly surrounded by 20 - 30 adults and children. It really felt as though you were the first white person that they had ever seen, and that may well have been the case for some. First presents handed out to the children being sticks of coloured chalk.

Well briefly; spent 3 days in the village, dressed as villagers, living the life of the villagers, washing in the stream etc, and being followed wherever we went by smiling, happy children. Took a lovely photo Kashmiri children running along the narrow mud walls of the paddy fields. It is my favourite photo so far, and is a good souvenir of the villager's kindness, and hospitality.

Spent one afternoon with Waseem's brother on the largest lake in Kashmir; that supplied the water for their rice fields etc..... tranquilty at it's best.

Writing this on the early morning train from Amritsar to Delhi.
Only one more back entry to log. Will need to correct texts, and publish photos. Nothing is simple or as expexted here in India.

Wagh..... Indian and Pakistan border ceromony.


Tuesday 8th June. Hot, very hot; in the middle 40's centigrade. Took bus from bus terminal (Stand 17) to Attari, an hour or so drive from Amritsar. After leaving the city you enter the semi desert countryside. Eucalyptus trees line the route, and provide limited shade to the muiltitude of water buffalo.

Arrived at Attari hot and sticky; the bus being crammed full, and of course no air conditioning.
We strolled around a few dusty streets, ate dal and chipati (very expensive....15 rupees) about 30 euros cents. Then took a bicycle rickshaw the 2 Km along the new road to Wagh.

Here at the frontier with Pakistan an extraordinary retreat ceromony takes place at around 5.30 p.m. Thousands of Indians gather to dance to Punjabi pop music, and run directly to the border gate waving their proud Indian flag before them. Directly under the noses of a limited Muslim Pakistani crowd, and military. Incredible to witness.

Tomorrow an early start............train to Delhi, and either bus or train to Agra. Looking forward to entering Rajasthan.

Wjll soon be sending out photo albums via Picasa on the web.

Monday 7 June 2010


Arrived in Leh from Srinagar on Friday 28th May (after the long journey by jeep). Was very dissapointed with Leh itself. Dirty, noisy etc.....;things don't change. The town is really just a tourist town that eagerly awaits the tourists who use the town as their treking base. Nothing more, nothing less.

Went to Thiksay monastry by public bus; an hour away from Leh. A beautiful monastry with plenty to see, and away from the noise of Leh. On that point, have taken in the region of 2000 photos so far. 50% go straight into the bin, 40 to 60 are in the catergory for potential exhibition photos, and the rest being more average tourist shots.

On the way to Leh stopped and had a small meal in Lamayuru to break up the very uncomfortable and cramped ride. A much smaller monastry built on the hill in the small village. The rock formation around Lamayuru is much lighter than anywhere else on the route and resembles an ochre honeycombed landscape. Unusal and beautiful.

Also on the route spent one night at Sankoo. A hamlet in barren landscape off the main route. Pouring with rain, cold, and desolate. Washed in a room no higher than 1.5 cubic metres with the humid odour of my companion next door..........a steaming cow. The pleasures of life. I had to ask for hot water to be boiled, which wasn't that appreciated, as the inhabitants wash (not frequently that is) with cold water; even during winter in temperatures of minus 20 centigrade.

Also spent one night in Kargil. A filfthy disgusting room by any standard. Didn't feel that comfortable due to the political and religious tensions. Told later that it was a dangerous place to be.

Back to Leh.......as mentioned you need several days to acclimatise to the altitude, otherwise you feel very week, and experience blood in the nose.
The main problem with Leh is that wherever there are tourists, there will be touts, and Indians who have travelled from all over India to set up a so-called shop. Many people I spoke to told me Leh was much nicer 3 years earlier, but now had totally changed.
Monday 31st May - Tuesday 1st June spent 2 nights back in Srinagar at the house of Mouneer our jeep driver. Planned on staying only one night but arrived late on the Monday evening after having spent 16 hours in a jeep from Leh, and really need 2 days to recover before heading back to Jammu. We left Leh at 5.30 a.m. The only road back to Srinagar had already been closed for 2 days whilst we were in Leh; due to landslides, and melting snow.

The road to Srinagar is not only one of the highest roads in the world, but also the most dangerous. Apart from the altitude to contend with is there is also the stream of overloaded lorries heading to Leh and beyond, and convoy after convoy of military vehicles. There are hardly any stretches of tarmacd road surface; the majority of the route being a pitted, water logged track. Leh being the coldest habitlal town in the world, with Kargil second. The mountain scenery is breath-taking, otherwise most of your concentraion is focused on how close your driver is to the precipise below. Several interesting points on route are Magnet Hill, and Tiger Hill. The latter being where the Pakistani army attacked India in 1999 - 2000; resulting in Indian losses of around 10,000. It's a little disconcerting when you spot road signs 'You are under enemy observation'. At Magnet Hill, however hard the driver puts his foot on the accelerater; he cannot accelerate due to the magnetism under the road surface. Basically, the whole region of Kashmir is a militarised zone, check points everywhere, and with check points comes corruption. Our driver although Kashmiri had to pay 50 to 100 rupees each time he was stopped at police check points......'.TII boss (This is India boss) my driver often said.

Later on the route to Jammu we were behind an army jeep (called a Gypsy) when we were waved down to stop. Mouneer our driver (22 years old) got out of the jeep, and with seconds one of the soldiers started beating him. What can you do? when that happens 3 metres infront of you. I jumped out and approached the officer (a captain) at speed, and told him in no uncertain terms what I thought of him.....basically that he was a disgrace to the Indian army; had no control of his subordinates, and he didn't deserve to hold a commissioned rank. That did the job, and the out of control soldier was grabed by another soldier and placed in the back of the Gypsy. Again, not a good experience, and even worse for Mouneer who like us was shocked. Everytime after that if Mouneer had to leave the vehicle, then I went with him. It's really sad, not only to witness such treatment, but worse to continually hear your driver say everytime there was a problem 'It's no problem boss', when it is a real problem and the guy is at the mercy of corrupt police officers, and renegade military.

Mouneer's family in Srinagar were very friendly, his elderly grandfather cooked the meals; as he has been a cook on a house boat for the past 45 years. Rather embarassing
Today has been the most frustrating day since being in India. Am continually trying to get a steady internet connection on this laptop; after having bought an !dea (Trademark) dongle for internet connection. It's supposed to be high speed...................joke, a snail could get up Everest faster than this. DON'T buy this make/supplier of dongle........it's La MERDE!!!!!!

It has taken all day to successfully book a train ticket out of this dust bowl of a City. The only thing worth seeing here is The Golden Temple, the old architecture around the bizaar area of the old part of town. I could have seen it all in 3 hours and then left.
You learn the hard way here. To be sure of a train ticket it's best to book 2 to 3 days in advance; otherwise you are practically trapped. Buses run for sure; but take 8 hours to anywhere interesting.
I will try and download a photo, and leave the laptop on for an hour in the hope it will work.

Briefly, Amritsar is a heaving, dirty, and overpopulated city; stinks of urine, pollution. Would have been better to have bought a postcard of the Golden Temple than come here. Anyhow, will take bus to Attari, and the rickshaw to Wagah tomorrow evening to see the border military ceremony.
Then 7. 30 a.m on Wednesday will take train back to Delhi, and on to Agra.

NOT A GOOD DAY.......;also have 20 street pigs/boars as neighbours.

Sunday 6 June 2010

Dharamasla to Pathankot


Arrived in Jammu on Wednesday from Srinagar by jeep (10 hours), and Thursday morning took train for Pathankot and then directly took bus to Dharamasla (3 and a half hour bus journey). On arrival in the old town that looks over the subhurbs, and inturn is overlooked by snow peaked mountains soon found a cheap hotel room. Had to pay 50 rupees more to have hot water, but the condition being that I had to inform the owner 30 minutes before I needed the hot water. The basic things we take for granted in the west just don't apply here. You never stop asking questions! You can never be sure of having water or electricty. A must for India is a torch, and of course lavatory paper. It's never provided, let alone soap etc.

The idea of going to Dhramasla was to pop up to Mcleod and see a monastry, and the Dali Lama's residence where the Tibetan government in exile is based, no pivate audience had been granted. However, all good plans change, and after spending a sleepless night; firstly with dogs fighting, and then a violent domestic dispute in a neighbouring house that lasted from 3 to 6a.m (woman squealing like a pig with it's throat cut) decided to head back to Pathankot.

The old part of Dharamasla is extremely noisly, filthy and what with the vehicle fumes etc isn't really worth the effort to get there. I think the fumes affected me more than it should have done as I had slight monoxide poisioning from previously spending 16 hours in a fume filled jeep from Leh to Srinagar two days before, and on top of that also had slight altitude sickness whilst I was in Leh. Slight nose bleeds, and physically tired due to the altitude, and less oxygen. (Normally takes a few days to for the body to adjust). Should have gone directly (a further 9 km) to Mcleod. Slightly dissapointed with Dharamasla......no, correction very dissapointed.

Saturday 5 June 2010

Friday 4th June - Panthankot


Arrived Friday lunchtime in Panthakot by bus from Dhramshala. Again a 3 hour public bus journey (cost 100 rupee). A quick word on buses; sit as close to the front as possible otherwise you will have a very bumpy ride at the back - shock absorbers are a problem here. It's best to sit directly behind the driver. If you sit on the bench seatfacing the driver then 100% guaranteed you will regret it. You can pay on the bus which makes things easier than than finding the ticket office. The buses stop where and when they want to collect passengers, and no sooner that your foot has entered the bus the driver is on his way again.If the door is open (no air conditioning) you risk falling out.
I found myself completely wedged on the bench seat. Woman especially will find anywhere to sit; and if it means stamping on your legs and feet; they will do it. So after 3 hours being stuck to sweaty passengers we arrived in Panthakot. Panthakot being a dusty town, a transport hub with the usual pollution, noise problems.
Found a reasonably good hotel to clean up, wash some clothes before taking camera to explore the immediate area, although temperature was in the 40's the light was bad; so returned to hotel to rest.

An hour later, as always the electricity cuts out in the room (this is normal here, you never know how long you will have either light, or air conditioning). Anyhow, went downstairs, and realised that a violent storm was directly above us, incredible wind; violent flashes of lightening. As I went out of the front doors the scene of debris flying down the side street was a god warning not to risk descending the sheltered steps into the side street. There is one born every minute! As I stood watching the events a man in his early 50's descended the steps, smiled at me, and on his first footstep into the street he was violently hit by a sheet of corrugated iron travelling at lighening speed. He was lucky not to be decapitated! The sheet of metal hit him in a downward motion, cutting his face, and hands. Hence, he made a rapid re-entry into the hotel and was rushed to hospital.
Moral of the story. Use your brain, and if there is a violent storm stay well under cover. These early monsoon tornadoes are killers, mainly due to all the un attached building materials that have been unsecured on the roof tops during the previous months.

But I love the auto rickshaws in Panthakot, they look like they come from the Wacky Races animated cartoons from the early 1970's.

Pathankot.......................dust, dust, and more dust; not to forget all the dogs, horses, and cows that roam the streets.

Golden Temple - Amritsa

Yesterday evening went to the Golden Temple (only a ten minute walk from the main bus station). Quite a performance to enter the Temple area; shoes have to be deposited in a locker area, touts try and sell you head scarfs, but not necessary as outside the main entrance they are provided free of charge. Interesting that you are not allowed to smoke in the busy side roads around the Temple, and when you enter you are checked for cigarettes, but not knives, hand grenates etc..... The Temple itself is very impressive !!!!! at anytime there must be in the region of 5 to 10 thousand pilgrims (most being Sikh). Photographs are allowed around the lake, but not inside. The queue to enter the Temple itself is always long, and can take up to 2 hours to get in.

Well worth a visit!!! The calm, beauty and tranquilty of the location is thought provoking, even if you just visit to temporary escape the filth, noise and pollution of the rest of the town.

All the towns, and even villages I have visit never change...........no hygiene, never ending noise, continual hassele from children; rickshaw drivers etc. All very, very tiring.

TII, THIS IS INDIA, and love it or hate it's not going to change in my lifetime.

Back in contact........ just from the Western Punjab.


Am well behind with the blog due to no internet connection, but will try in the next few days to back tract since my last entry. So today I have arrived in Western Punjab; a 3 hour public bus journey from Pathankot (Saturday 5th June). Train journey would cost about 550 rupees; bus 65 rupees (1.25 euros). Have had quite a lot of hassel from rickshaw drivers etc, and only 15 minutes ago a man pulled a gun on me whilst I was out having a chai tea. He thought it was funny, I didn't!!!!!!!!!, but without seeming macho, my extremely sharp knife was very close at hand. Kindly sharpened free of charge by a young guy in Pathankot last night.

Here in Amritsar for two reasons: 1. to see the Sikh Golden Temple, and 2) travel to the Pakistan border (half an hour in auto rickshaw) to witness both the Indian and Pakistani armies taunting each other with military prouess. Might pay 20 rupees shortly to a rickshaw driver to take me to see the sunset at the Golden Temple