Arrived in Jammu on Wednesday from Srinagar by jeep (10 hours), and Thursday morning took train for Pathankot and then directly took bus to Dharamasla (3 and a half hour bus journey). On arrival in the old town that looks over the subhurbs, and inturn is overlooked by snow peaked mountains soon found a cheap hotel room. Had to pay 50 rupees more to have hot water, but the condition being that I had to inform the owner 30 minutes before I needed the hot water. The basic things we take for granted in the west just don't apply here. You never stop asking questions! You can never be sure of having water or electricty. A must for India is a torch, and of course lavatory paper. It's never provided, let alone soap etc.
The idea of going to Dhramasla was to pop up to Mcleod and see a monastry, and the Dali Lama's residence where the Tibetan government in exile is based, no pivate audience had been granted. However, all good plans change, and after spending a sleepless night; firstly with dogs fighting, and then a violent domestic dispute in a neighbouring house that lasted from 3 to 6a.m (woman squealing like a pig with it's throat cut) decided to head back to Pathankot.
The old part of Dharamasla is extremely noisly, filthy and what with the vehicle fumes etc isn't really worth the effort to get there. I think the fumes affected me more than it should have done as I had slight monoxide poisioning from previously spending 16 hours in a fume filled jeep from Leh to Srinagar two days before, and on top of that also had slight altitude sickness whilst I was in Leh. Slight nose bleeds, and physically tired due to the altitude, and less oxygen. (Normally takes a few days to for the body to adjust). Should have gone directly (a further 9 km) to Mcleod. Slightly dissapointed with Dharamasla......no, correction very dissapointed.
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