Arrived in Leh from Srinagar on Friday 28th May (after the long journey by jeep). Was very dissapointed with Leh itself. Dirty, noisy etc.....;things don't change. The town is really just a tourist town that eagerly awaits the tourists who use the town as their treking base. Nothing more, nothing less.

Went to Thiksay monastry by public bus; an hour away from Leh. A beautiful monastry with plenty to see, and away from the noise of Leh. On that point, have taken in the region of 2000 photos so far. 50% go straight into the bin, 40 to 60 are in the catergory for potential exhibition photos, and the rest being more average tourist shots.

On the way to Leh stopped and had a small meal in Lamayuru to break up the very uncomfortable and cramped ride. A much smaller monastry built on the hill in the small village. The rock formation around Lamayuru is much lighter than anywhere else on the route and resembles an ochre honeycombed landscape. Unusal and beautiful.

Also on the route spent one night at Sankoo. A hamlet in barren landscape off the main route. Pouring with rain, cold, and desolate. Washed in a room no higher than 1.5 cubic metres with the humid odour of my companion next door..........a steaming cow. The pleasures of life. I had to ask for hot water to be boiled, which wasn't that appreciated, as the inhabitants wash (not frequently that is) with cold water; even during winter in temperatures of minus 20 centigrade.

Also spent one night in Kargil. A filfthy disgusting room by any standard. Didn't feel that comfortable due to the political and religious tensions. Told later that it was a dangerous place to be.

Back to Leh.......as mentioned you need several days to acclimatise to the altitude, otherwise you feel very week, and experience blood in the nose.
The main problem with Leh is that wherever there are tourists, there will be touts, and Indians who have travelled from all over India to set up a so-called shop. Many people I spoke to told me Leh was much nicer 3 years earlier, but now had totally changed.