At 10a.m headed off back down to the Taj to the dusty track. This time I was stopped by three police officers, and was ordered to turn back. After explaining that I had already passed the same way earlier, and I wanted to visit the temple one police officer reluctantly waved me on. When I reached the 'grey area' the dogs had parted, and a few elderly men were chatting on a raised platform. I was informed that the area was indeed a Hindu cremation area, and the cremations took place in the evening. Relatives of the dead came in the morning to gather their beloved one's ashes (to scatter at Varanassi, or put somewhere in the Ganges river at a later date).
Just as I was about to leave I turned my head and a group of men were entering the area carrying a corpse on a bamboo stretcher, then followed by others carrying bundles of thin sticks, and others with heavy fire logs. This is NOT the time to take photos. I wasn't even sure for awhile if my presence as a Westerner was welcomed; so kept in the shadows to see if I was intruding. Then another female body was sretchered into the area, and placed next to a brushed cleaned fire area.
My presence as a viewer to the events wasn't welcomed, and wasn't challenged, so I descended from my semi-hiding area, and stood amongst 20 people some 5 metres from the first body. As the funeral pyre was constructed in a methodical, and time proven manner I watched the events in amazement, and found the whole event extremely moving.
Once the main base of the pyre was constructed, the body of the man (aged around 50) was lifted onto the half constructed pyre. Then the thin cotton sheet was removed from his head, and lumps of ghee fat (like tea light candles) were place on his eyes and chin. The face having already been covered in an oil. Brush wood was placed on top of the body followed by more heavy logs. Then wood was place vertically all around the body, and what seemed to be dried animal manure was pushed between the gaps of the logs. Before the pyre was lit, a powdered substance was scattered all over the pyre. This I believe was a scented substance.
So after about 40 minutes the pyre was lit and the crowd of some 25 people beat a hasty retreat as the flames jumped seveal metres into the air like a fireball. Apparently it takes approximately 3 hours to cremate the body. I had seen enough, and didn't wish to see anymore.
How did I feel? A little shocked, priveliged to have witnessed such an event, and very reflective on how short our lives are, and what a brutal end. It makes you think......................A lot!!!!!!!
At this place some 40 bodies are cremated everyday..............within spitting distance of the Taj Mahl where tourists have no idea what is unfolding a few hundred metres away on the banks of the Yamuna.(Top photo shows plumes of smoke from the funeral pyres - photo taken at distance from Agra fort). Maybe that is just as well.
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